Ah, autumn is here. Do you know how I can tell? It’s not because the weather has turned colder; it’s not because the leaves have begun to turn; it’s not because the tomatoes are bursting at their seams. It’s not for any of the reasons.

I can tell that autumn is officially here because Kris and I just made our first Fancy Meal of the season. It was a quickie, and only for ourselves, but it was very, very tasty. We had:

• Caprial’s port- and soy-glazed beef tenderloin, using meat from the side of beef we bought last winter
• Fresh corn from the garden
• Fresh apples from the “orchard”
• A salad containing cheese from the farmer’s market and various veggies from our garden
• Some bad wine

Aside from the bad wine — a California product, naturally — this was all locally-grown food, much of it from our own yard.

From April to September, our meals are rather simple. But October arrives and suddenly we’re ready for complex flavors and gourmet cooking. That’s how I can tell that autumn is here.